I'm Alice Schlein, a weaver and book maker in South Carolina. Occasionally I write about Photoshop, Network Drafting, bread baking, and whatever else strikes my fancy. Thanks for stopping by! Comments are welcome.
Explorations in Double Twill Two-hour lecture at the Complex Weavers Southeast Gathering. June 17-18, 2017, at the Yadkin Valley Fiber Room. For more information on the Gathering, click on above link.
Spin Your Own Yarn Jan. 17 - Mar. 13. Learn to use the simple drop spindle to spin your own woolen yarn for knitting, crochet, or weaving. This hand tool of prehistoric origin is inexpensive, portable, and easy to use. Create a mid-weight yarn suitable for garments, accessories, and household items. Pack all your spinning supplies in a lunchbag-sized tote and take it with you on vacation! Click on Winter Brochure 2017.
The Woven Pixel: Designing for Jacquard and Dobby Looms Using Photoshop® Co-authored by Alice Schlein and Bhakti Ziek. 362 pages, many illustrations. Now available for free download on handweaving.net. The accompanying CD with 1400 pattern presets is not included with the free download, but may be purchased separately. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for more information.
Network Drafting: An Introduction By Alice Schlein. Break away from the block. Curves for your dobby loom. Originally published in 1994, now available as print-on-demand from www.lulu.com.
A Crepe Is Not Just a Pancake 52 pages of text, b&w and color diagrams, and drafts for multishaft tradle & dobby looms. Many color photos of actual cloth. Methods for drafting your own crepe weaves. Annotated bibliography. Pdf available for immediate download. $21. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
Echo Weave Based on the 1996 article in Weaver's, Issue 32. With brand new diagrams and high resolution scans of original fabrics. Pdf available for immediate download. $7. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
Three wefts: a primary weft (almost invisible in this sample) and two secondary wefts, red & yellow. There is an illusion of yet another weft, but that's just where the red & yellow blend in certain areas.
Another version: this time the primary cloth (dark green) and the secondary red & yellow wefts are more distinct. Thanks for the suggestion, Ruth.
So glad I rethreaded the loom. The structures are the same, but the design is now based on network drafting (if you'd like to know more about this topic, there's a book...). The blocks weren't making me happy, but I'm loving the curves. Click to enlarge.
Taking a break from the loom I walked around the neighborhood this morning. It's high season for azaleas around here.
Well not horrible, but annoying. I added a second secondary weft to the mix, and stayed with a networked treadling. At first I thought it was OK.
Then I discovered a treadling error. See those longish green warp floats? Back to the drawing board.
Then this happened:
It seemed like a pretty good time to change course, so I cut off the work so far, unthreaded the reed & heddles, and started rethreading with a nice curvy networked lampas draft. I was sick of the blocks, anyway.
Blocks again, this time with a slightly different profile.
The players: Primary warp green bamboo, secondary warp light blue silk; primary weft black cotton; secondary wefts white tencel and beige pigtail cotton. Primary cloth structure right 2/2 twill; secondary cloth structure left 1/2 twill. Ratio of primary to secondary warps 2/1.
Following is a closeup. Click to enlarge.
For the curious, here is the WIF file for 15 shafts. It's for tieup and treadling, but you will probably have to convert it to a liftplan to drive your loom.
Getting a little bored with blocks, I decided to use a networked treadling with today's sample, and the effect is neither blocky nor curved, but something in between. It looks organic, and reminds me of tree bark. The materials I used contribute to this effect: the secondary weft in this case is a very rough natural silk noil.
Here's a closeup. At first glance you might think there are very long warp floats, but not to worry, all is structurally sound. Network drafting sometimes plays tricks on the eyes. Click to enlarge.
i've added another element to the lampas samples: an additional secondary weft. So now there are two warps (primary warp is green bamboo and secondary is blue silk) and three wefts (one primary, dark blue; and two secondary, yellow-green and blue).
Here's a closer look:
Theoretically, since there are three blocks, you could add a third secondary weft for the third block, but then you wouldn't have any place to show off the primary cloth. Just saying.
Yesterday I forgot to mention that I was the lucky winner of a door prize at the SE Fiber Forum conference: a free one week class at John C. Campbell Folk School. So what'll it be? Watercolor? Bread making? I have a year to decide.
Wove a few more lampas samples today. This one has bamboo & silk warps, and a blue bamboo secondary weft. I'm not too excited about the blocks, but they do represent an opportunity to try various structures without confusing the issue. Primary cloth 2/2 right twill, secondary cloth 1/2 left twill. Click to enlarge.