I'm Alice Schlein, a weaver and book maker in South Carolina. Occasionally I write about Photoshop, Network Drafting, bread baking, and whatever else strikes my fancy. Thanks for stopping by! Comments are welcome.
Explorations in Double Twill Two-hour lecture at the Complex Weavers Southeast Gathering. June 17-18, 2017, at the Yadkin Valley Fiber Room. For more information on the Gathering, click on above link.
Spin Your Own Yarn Jan. 17 - Mar. 13. Learn to use the simple drop spindle to spin your own woolen yarn for knitting, crochet, or weaving. This hand tool of prehistoric origin is inexpensive, portable, and easy to use. Create a mid-weight yarn suitable for garments, accessories, and household items. Pack all your spinning supplies in a lunchbag-sized tote and take it with you on vacation! Click on Winter Brochure 2017.
The Woven Pixel: Designing for Jacquard and Dobby Looms Using Photoshop® Co-authored by Alice Schlein and Bhakti Ziek. 362 pages, many illustrations. Now available for free download on handweaving.net. The accompanying CD with 1400 pattern presets is not included with the free download, but may be purchased separately. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for more information.
Network Drafting: An Introduction By Alice Schlein. Break away from the block. Curves for your dobby loom. Originally published in 1994, now available as print-on-demand from www.lulu.com.
A Crepe Is Not Just a Pancake 52 pages of text, b&w and color diagrams, and drafts for multishaft tradle & dobby looms. Many color photos of actual cloth. Methods for drafting your own crepe weaves. Annotated bibliography. Pdf available for immediate download. $21. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
Echo Weave Based on the 1996 article in Weaver's, Issue 32. With brand new diagrams and high resolution scans of original fabrics. Pdf available for immediate download. $7. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
After two years of lampas I was looking for a new structure to explore. First, I wanted to create a more flexible, drapable, airy fabric. Second, I was wanting a way to weave something relating to the drawing and sketching lately on my mind. A look of the drawn line.
In my library is a pair of treasured books by Doris Goerner, Woven Structure and Design, Parts 1 & 2. In Part 2, Compound Structures, is a design for a jacquard fabric that Goerner labels "Fabric with extra weft. 1 warp—2 weft systems". She further states, "Coarse weft yarn figuring sparingly used on a fine and dense ground weave can produce very attractive designs." This fabric is, in a word, brocade. The ground is a plain weave that could stand alone if the figuring weft is removed. The figuring weft goes from selvedge to selvedge.
I've used this structure from time to time in jacquard work, but I was really eager to work out a rational system for employing it on the dobby loom. It occurred to me that basing the float system on an 8-end satin, it could be used on all the common dobby configurations, namely 8, 16, 24, 32, and 40 shafts, on a straight threading or a threading plotted on a network of an 8-end initial. Moreover, If all the float positions were built on a common satin interlacement, there would be no floats longer than 7; and the straight or networked threading would enable a plain weave ground, paving the way for a lighter cloth. I could use more or fewer rows of plain weave between brocade picks, to provide the desired degree of lightness.
This is a brand new warp on my 16-shaft dobby loom. After correcting a couple of threading errors, I tried a few inches of brocade on a plain weave ground. There are two rows of plain weave after each brocade pick. The effect of the sketchy line comes through as I had hoped. I think after finishing it will have the lighter hand I was hoping for.
As the ties are spread out over equally over all 16 shafts, there will be no issues of unequal tension in the warp. I'm looking forward to a lot of sampling on this warp.