At Jette Vandermeiden's lecture on Lampas at the Complex Weavers Seminars a few weeks ago, I was introduced to this book, Royal Silks, by Zetterström and Ekstrand:
I've finally procured my own copy, and it is a wonder! It's a compendium of fabrics from the Royal Armory in Stockholm, and contains analyses of lampas fabrics, and a number of other interesting structures as well. It would be a good resource for the jacquard weaver, the drawloom weaver, and the advanced shaft loom weaver.
One fabric that caught my eye was on page 62, the mourning banner for princes Gustav and Carl Gustav, circa 1680. The structure is called liseré, one I've never tried before. It has a single warp and a single weft; the weft interlaces sometimes in 8-end warp satin (ground); in addition odd wefts float sometimes in a 3/1 twill bound by every sixth satin thread, and even wefts float sometimes in basket weave. It's like a multitasking weft! Intriguing. Here's what the Pattern Presets might look like in Photoshop; first is the ground, then Pattern 1, then Pattern 2. I'm looking forward to trying this out.
I have two naked looms at the moment; I'm working on remedying that situation. I'm not sure if the liseré explorations will be jacquard or dobby. If dobby, I'll have to rework the structure to repeat on a factor of 40 for the 40-shaft loom; at present it repeats on 24 warps.