I'm Alice Schlein, a weaver in South Carolina. A few times a week I write about my weaving, Network Drafting, Amalgamation, bread baking, my morning walks, and whatever else strikes my fancy. Thanks for stopping by! Comments are welcome.
Amalgamation for 8 shafts and above, presented via Zoom at Complex Weavers Seminars 2022, Knoxville TN, July 10-13. For more information and to register, go to https://www.complex-weavers.org/seminar/seminars-2022/
Lecture: "My Weaving Life So Far"
Weavers Guild of Boston, Wed., Sept. 15, Virtual lecture, open to the public. Register online, registration closes Sept. 12.
Go to weaversguildofboston.org, Meetings, Register for a Zoom Meeting, September 15 Meeting, Register Now, RSVP.
Books
The Woven Pixel: Designing for Jacquard and Dobby Looms Using Photoshop® Co-authored by Alice Schlein and Bhakti Ziek. 362 pages, many illustrations. Now available for free download on handweaving.net. The accompanying CD with 1400 pattern presets is not included with the free download, but may be purchased separately. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for more information.
Network Drafting: An Introduction By Alice Schlein. Break away from the block. Curves for your dobby loom. Originally published in 1994, now available as print-on-demand from www.lulu.com.
Monographs
Amalgamation: Double Your Dobby 24-pages of text, diagrams, and color photographs, in pdf format for download. Create drafts for 8 or more shafts in half-drop or brick arrangements which would normally require twice the number of shafts. Related to network drafting, this is a technique for intermediate or advanced weavers with dobby looms or multi-shaft table looms. Includes guidelines for amalgamation with three current weaving applications. View on a computer, or print out one copy for your own use. USD$21. via PayPal. Email aschlein[at]att[dot]net and indicate your preferred email address for PayPal.
Lampas for Shaft Looms Class notes from Complex Weavers Seminars 2016, newly revised and formatted, in pdf form for download. A review of methods for designing your own lampas fabrics for treadle looms, table looms, and dobbies, eight shafts and above. Over 90 color photos of actual fabrics with drafts. Includes info on pickup lampas and a lampas bibliography. View on a computer, or print out one copy for your own use. USD$21. via PayPal. Email aschlein[at]att[dot]net for ordering info.
A Crepe Is Not Just a Pancake 52 pages of text, b&w and color diagrams, and drafts for multishaft tradle & dobby looms. Many color photos of actual cloth. Methods for drafting your own crepe weaves. Annotated bibliography. Pdf available for immediate download. $21. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
Echo Weave Based on the 1996 article in Weaver's, Issue 32. With brand new diagrams and high resolution scans of original fabrics. Pdf available for immediate download. $7. USD. Payment by PayPal. Email me at aschlein[at]att[dot]net for payment instructions.
In the testing for the double twill I found that the selvedge was a bit tight, making the dreaded "smile" curve across the web. I was using an 8-end satin on 12 ends on each side of the web. I tweaked the file to make the selvedge a 12-end satin, a looser interlacement, and tried it out. It seems to be working better, and the fell is level. For those who care about such things, here's a picture of the new selvedge.
Double twill is a structure I wove a lot of nine or ten years ago. It involved two warps, light & dark, and (at that time) 4 wefts, usually red, blue, yellow & green. There are many color possibilities with that arrangement; The twill in the top layer can have either a light or a dark warp, and any one, two, or three of the colored wefts; in addition, the twill on top can be 1/3, 2/2, or 3/1. Multiplying all that out, you get 84 color possibilities. For more information about this interesting structure, refer to Chapter 8 of The Woven Pixel (see sidebar).
I'm returning to the double twill structure for an upcoming project, but I've decided to work with the 3-weft version instead. There will be black & white warps, and the three wefts can be used one or two at a time, with the three different twills and either a dark or a light warp on top. This multiplies out to 36 color possibilities, still a gracious plenty.
My loom is currently set up to weave at 60 epi, and it has a black warp on it, so I can't do a true color sample until I rewarp it with black and white. But I can still get a lot of information from a sample. What I specifically want to know is what weft weight will work best with the 20/2 cotton warp set at 60 epi. I wove a small sample this morning, first with 20/2 cotton as the weft, and next with 10/2 cotton.
I learned a lot. The 20/2 cotton weaves to 96 ppi in this structure, while the 10/2 cotton weaves to 72 ppi. I'm liking the 10/2 version much better, and after I rewarp the loom in black & white, I'll do a real weave blanket to see all 36 colors.
Meanwhile, here's a digital simulation of the weave blanket. It looks better if you click on it to enlarge.
I've added a new category, Double Twill, to my list. I'll be using Weaverly to document the progress of this project (my virtual notebook, if you like), so if you want to follow along, Double Twill is the ticket.
With a nod to Ian & Sylvia, The Irish Rovers, et al . . .
Farewell to Nova Scotia, the sea-bound coast,
Let your mountains dark and dreary be
When I’m far away, on the briny ocean tossed,
Will you ever heave a sigh or a wish for me?
At the Lunenburg waterfront--music by the Bridgewater Fire Department band and combined choirs of area churches.
Committal of wreaths memorializing fishermen lost at sea in years ending in the number 6:
The blessing of the fleet:
Especially moving was the mariner's version of Psalm 23:
The Lord is my Pilot, I shall not drift.
He lighteth me across the dark waters; He steereth me in the deep channels.
He keepeth my log. He guideth me by the star of His holiness for His name's sake.
Yea, though I sail 'mid the thunders and tempests of life, I shall dread no danger, for Thou art with me; Thy love and Thy care they shelter me.
Thou preparest a harbour for me in the homeland of eternity. Thou anointest the waves with oil. My ship rideth calmly.
Surely sunlight and starlight shall favour me on the voyage I take.
And I will rest in the port of God forever.
Amen.
Had a lovely chat this afternoon with Marrie Berkelaar at Double Whale Handwoven Designs, about her garments all woven with Nova Scotia wool. Her crocheted edges & seams are perfection.