Weaverly

Misadventures

Way back in the last millennium I wove some pieces based on the printed word, a nod to my interest in font design and page layouts. I decided to revisit this study last week. The structure was to be double plain weave on the dobby loom and I started by weaving some small samples for determining sett & yarn choices. I wanted to use cottolin for its scrunchy texture, similar to my favorite sketchbook paper. One of the weft yarns was a red cottolin of uncertain provenance. After washing, I had an unpleasant surprise. The red yarn bled badly. Glad I sampled.

The sample on the left is at 24 epi each layer, total 48, and the one on the right is 20 epi each layer, total 40. I liked the looser one best, so that is what I chose. I warped up with pale gold and chocolate brown. I made a number of threading errors and had to redo several times. It was a humbling experience, but it took my mind off the news. I finally prevailed. Here's a view at the back of the loom after warping. 

Fortunately there's plenty of warp for more sampling. I discovered a sleying error (see red arrow) and had to resley the righthand section. Um, that's an error you expect to see in Weaving 101. Bad doggie.

Got that sorted out. Tried some different weft colors & materials. 

Settled on pearl gray and dark green. I was going for the look of old ledger paper, and I think we're there. The turquoise lines are a nod to margin rules.

So far so good.

Just finished reading Camus's The Plague, in English translation. I think I read it before, in college, but I don't remember any of it.

Morning Light

When I go into the studio first thing in the morning, sometimes I see this:

The light is so alluring that it's impossible to leave, and I just have to sit down and start throwing the shuttle.

The weft in this case is a melon-colored cottolin, a shade of yellow very different than the acid yellow in the warp. It's just enough of a difference to show the pattern in the center area, but it's not overpowering.

Sidelighting enables you to see the pattern more clearly. 

In other matters, I've just learned that Janet Phillips's new book, Exploring Woven Fabrics, is now available at a pre-publication price. I love her previous book, Designing Woven Fabrics and I'm looking forward to this new one. Janet has a genius for combining simple weaves into complex-looking fabrics. More info here. 

Corrections

Fans of Amalgamation: you've been generous with your comments and corrections. Please check the sidebar, under Other Stuff, for updated errata files. I hope there won't be too many of them! 

And now moving on to the next warp.

Eight shafts, amalgamation, cotton, 20epi. Stay tuned.

Rays

If I get out really early, I catch the ray effect of the morning sun. In these fraught days it seems as if a message is being sent. 

Maybe that's a little fanciful, but when it's just me and the trees and the birds, I tend to think that way. 

This evening the solstice will be here, and then we'll tilt the other way.

These views are brief, but so joy-inducing when they come.

Back in the studio, I put a new warp on the dobby loom. The amalgamation samples told me what I needed to know regarding sett; I put on a wider piece this time. It meant shuffling around some heddles, not a pleasant task, but necessary. There were a couple of sleying errors, but eventually everything got sorted out. The border leads gradually into the main motif.

I decided to use two strands of 20/2 cotton in this double shuttle as the weft. I wanted a dark weft, but not dead black. This is a bobbin each of dark blue and black. Click to enlarge. In the picture you can't see the blue, but it's there. Well, maybe you can see it.

Managing the double weft is a bit tricky, as it tends to leave little loops at the selvedge. So you have to keep an eagle eye on the web as you weave. Yes, like a bird of prey. And I'm using a temple. It has sharp teeth.

________

Just finished reading The Untouchable, by John Banville (one of my faves). It's a novel loosely based on the true story of an art historian turned spy, and his unraveling. 

Book Sale, and Two More Samples

Lulu's having a 15% off sale today. The code is FIFTEEN and it expires at 11:59 PM today (I assume that means EST), June 19th. So if you've been thinking of ordering a copy of Network Drafting or The Liftplan Connection (see BOOKS in sidebar), this might be a good day to do it. Just sayin'. 

Two more samples are completed on the hemp & linen warp. The differences are subtle, but interesting. It's all about tonal values, which come about with changes in the tie-up. The natural warp and red weft are constant, but the structural changes shift the tonal balance.

Where lighter areas bump up against darker, the design outlines are crisp, but where they shade gradually from dark to light, the lines are less distinct. 

Minute changes in the tie-up change the patterns dramatically because of this dark/light push/pull. These are visible in the computer drafts, but come to life so much more in the woven cloth. 

Closing In

As walking out in public becomes more and more fraught, I find myself spending more hours at the loom and at the computer. That's not the best thing for my physical body, but I do enjoy the extra time with the threads. You know what I mean. I know you do.

I won't show you a picture of what's on the loom, because it hasn't changed much from the previous post. 

Then again, maybe I will! It's my blog. I can change my mind and I make the rules here.

So here's what's on my loom:

Shadow weave. I fiddled with the draft for so long, and when it was as good as I could get it, turns out it is almost exactly the same as one of Marion Powell's. This book is a treasure. My copy is old, well worn, and falling apart. 

Shadow weave makes me wonder about adding end-and-end color alternation to some of my amalgamation drafts, so here's an experiment from this morning (click to enlarge):

Compare it with the structure-only version of the same draft.

Well, I feel better already. Happy weaving, folks. Be kind to each other.

Byways

Weaving activity is at a temporary standstill, but sewing goes on bigtime. I've developed a new relationship with linen fabric, and find that it is a joy to sew and an even bigger joy to wear.

There are new challenges to meet, such as neck gussets on this historical frontier shirt. This pattern is not for sissies!

Weaving has gone underground but is still very much alive in my head. I try to do a daily draft just to keep my skills sharp.

And of course I love my morning walks. Still avoiding the Swamp Rabbit Trail because of the crowds of (largely unmasked) bikers and walkers, but there is good opportunity for walks on the neighborhood streets. 

Just finished reading a lovely book, Greek to Me: Adventures of the Comma Queen, by Mary Norris. Hilarious and very moving.

Life in the Slow Lane

Job One for today, after the morning walk, was to clean and oil my sewing machine. This dear machine, acquired in 1972, has been a loyal workhorse and friend. I haven't looked in her innards since our move, and it was definitely time. I am embarrassed. She was full of lint and never complained.

I gave her a good brushing out and vacuuming, and a few drops of oil. I put in a new needle. Now she's so happy she almost sings!

Such a coincidence: a package of linen arrived. I zigzagged the ends and put all the pieces in the washing machine to preshrink. What gorgeousness. All ready to go.

As I now limit my weaving & sewing to 1/2 hour at a time, there is plenty of opportunity for reading on the back porch.

Just finished reading The Other Bennet Sister, by Janice Hadlow. Jane Austen fans will enjoy this reimagining of the story of Mary, the middle sister in the Bennet family, the plain, bookish, and nerdy one. The book is faithful to the spirit of the original Pride and Prejudice, but gives a contemporary twist to the Mary's character and struggles. A very satisfying read, although a bit on the longish side. I loved the sly references to P&P. 

More images of the home front—here is afternoon sun in the breakfast room:

—and of course today's stint at the loom.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend and be safe.
 

The Fabric of Civilization

Fiber artists of any stripe, here's an excellent book on textile history. Virginia Postrel's new book will turn your old ideas about fabric and civilization down unexpected pathways. The Fabric of Civilization is divided into chapters loosely related to individual textile processes, such as spinning, weaving, and dyeing, and the author points out that textiles are the basis of our number systems, our banking, our commerce, and our science. This book is full of stories of individuals who innovated entire systems because of their sensitivity to textile processes. The author actually learned to spin and weave while writing the book, and her explanations and diagrams are spot on. Profusely illustrated with photos and diagrams, and contains a comprehensive bibliography. Highly recommended. It won't be out until November, but if you pre-order you'll get a special gift: Postrel's woven bookmarks for the first 50 people who pre-order! Full disclosure: I was given a copy of this book for reviewing purposes. 

Changing topics now. Kudzu. Here it is in my neighborhood. I have a friend whose cows eat kudzu. I also knew someone who harvested, retted, spun, and wove with kudzu. She made a vest. It was very scratchy and essentially unwearable. 

Back in the studio, I'm weaving samples of shadow weave with black silk (gifted) and natural wool/silk noil yarn from my stash (at least 40 years old). I haven't woven much shadow weave, but I find it fascinating. I invented an original draft for 8 shafts, then discovered the same draft in Marian Powell's 1976 book. Nothing original in weaving, it is said.

A big thank you to all the great folks who have been making this time of isolation bearable. 

Happy Birthday, Charlotte Brontë

Happy Birthday, Charlotte Brontë. You have given me so much pleasure over the years. I wish you had had an easier life.

This morning's walk was another of those springtime gifts.

Goats and sheep, oh my.

A brief glimpse into another world.

Back at home I am scanning woven samples. Now I hope I can match up the correct drafts with these. I am a woeful record keeper.

A little less taxing: making bias tape.